How to care for Fraxinus chinensis bonsai?

Many people like to grow some flowers and plants. Growing flowers can not only cultivate sentiment, but also cultivate one's character. In particular, growing flowers can purify the air at home and add some green to the home. Fraxinus chinensis bonsai is a very common plant in life. Because Fraxinus chinensis is cold-resistant and drought-resistant, it also requires attention to methods and techniques in its daily cultivation. So how to maintain Fraxinus chinensis bonsai?

1. Botanical characteristics of Fraxinus chinensis Fraxinus chinensis is a plant of the Oleaceae family, Fraxinus genus. It is native to Zhongxiang and Jingshan in Hubei Province. It is a deciduous tree that is over 30 meters tall. The bark of young and middle-aged trees is smooth and light gray-green, while the bark of middle-aged and old trees has longitudinal dark gray cracks. The branches have strong sprouting ability and are resistant to pruning. The tree is drought-resistant, moisture-resistant and high-temperature-resistant, and likes fertilizer, water and sunlight. It can be cultivated in the open field in areas south of Beijing. Suitable for neutral and slightly acidic soil, pH value 5-7. Propagated by sowing and cuttings.

2. Treatment of the fallen fraxinus stumps and propagation by cuttings. The ash tree stumps purchased far away from the production area are all dug by mountain people in winter and early spring. The local cultivation and digging period is from mid-June to mid-August. Mountain people generally take poor protective measures during the process of digging and transportation. Although this tree species has strong vitality, in order to achieve a higher survival rate, it is still necessary to pay attention to its varying degrees of dehydration. First of all, the fence must be cut in one go. This tree species takes root easily, and a root cut with a diameter of 200mm can still produce fibrous roots. Therefore, any roots and branches that hinder future potting and shaping should be sawed off decisively. Secondly, the plants must absorb enough water. If possible, it is best to place the roots upright in water containing a rooting agent (such as rooting powder, vitamin B12) and soak them. The treatment time should be based on the instructions for use of the rooting agent. Or soak the whole pile in clean water for a day and night, and then plant it in a sand bed for maintenance. The root burial depth is above 20cm, and the old piles and split-trunk piles with a trunk diameter greater than 20cm should be appropriately deepened. Pile spacing: The spacing between medium-sized piles should be greater than 0.5m, and the spacing between large piles should be greater than 1m. This is conducive to the extension of branches. Otherwise, the branches will cover each other, which is not conducive to growth and pruning operations. Again, after planting, the soil should be fully watered so that the sand is in close contact with the tree root gaps. The sand bed should be kept moist at ordinary times and the tree trunks should be watered frequently. If 30%~50% sunshade net is used for protection, the effect will be better. Generally speaking, it will germinate in late spring or early summer. After the beginning of autumn in early August, the shade net can be removed to allow the plants to enjoy full sunshine. In late April to early May, if there are still tree stumps that have not sprouted, scrape the bark with a knife. If the top bark is still emerald green instead of withered yellow, you can pull it out of the sand bed, soak it in clean water for a day and a night, and plant it in sand in a semi-shaded and semi-sunny place for maintenance, which can still promote germination and survival.

In order to protect the ecological environment, sowing and cutting propagation are now advocated. Sowing is suitable for large-scale propagation. You can refer to gardening technical materials for this. It is easier for bonsai enthusiasts to propagate by cuttings, which can be done in winter and spring. Use one-year-old strong branches, cut them to 10cm~15cm long before germination, insert them into the sand bed, provide appropriate shade, and water them frequently to keep the sand bed moist. It will take more than 30 days to take root and can be transplanted to the field for cultivation in mid-May. It can also be planted in summer and autumn, but it must be shaded and the sand bed kept moist, and management is slightly more difficult.

3. For pruning and shaping of ash tree stumps , the new buds that sprout in the first year should be handled according to the strength of the sprouting and branching of each stump. For vigorous trees, pruning is usually carried out after the beginning of autumn in early August, when most branches grow to more than 40 cm. Branches that meet the shaping direction are retained, and 1-2 clustered branches are retained, and the rest are removed. If you find that there are no branches where branches are needed, you can use the extra branches at the bottom of the trunk to graft them onto the missing parts. The lower shaping branches should be pulled into place with ropes or aluminum wires. At this time, it is best not to use the winding method to tie the shape. Because the branches of the ash tree grow thicker quickly at the nodes, if you are not careful, they will become trapped and affect the appearance and growth of the primary branches. After the branches are fixed, apply urea fertilizer once a week according to the planting area, at a rate of 10g to 20g per square meter, to promote the thickening of new branches. Because the fraxinus chinensis can grow when the daily average temperature is above 150°C, as long as the new stump has sufficient water, fertilizer and sunlight, the diameter of the base of the vigorous branches can reach more than 20mm before frost in the same year. Therefore, the top branches should be pinched to control their length first (for quickly formed commercial stakes, the first-level branches can be pruned, and the second-level branches can be pruned at the end of the year). Branches at the bottom and other parts that need to be thickened are left to grow. During the management process, you should observe at all times. If you find extra branches sprouting from the base of the trunk, you should remove them in time. Otherwise, the crazy branches will grow suddenly, consume nutrients in vain, and affect the growth and thickening of the shaped branches. After the leaves fall due to frost, they can be potted. Dig the stumps out of the sand bed, shake off the gravel on the roots, cut off the excessively long roots, and trim the branches into shape. Arrange the plants according to their size and fill them with nutrient soil. Shallow pots should be surrounded by walls to prevent the fibrous roots from protruding from the soil surface. Finally, water sufficiently and strengthen wintering management. If the sand bed is not used in a hurry, you can prune it in winter, and it is better to pot it before the spring budding. For weak branches, although they have sprouted, the roots have not grown or have grown sparsely. They should continue to be planted in the sand bed and cultivated, and then potted after the roots and branches grow vigorously in the second year. Don't rush to prune the branches and pot them, as this will affect the survival rate. 4. Shaping of the branches of the fraxinus chinensis. The fraxinus chinensis is a fast-growing tree species with vigorous growth. After one year of cultivation and pruning of the basal branches, most of the branches can be pruned and stored in the second year, except for a few terminal transitional branches, floating branches and prone branches that are deliberately left longer and thicker. In the early stage, the first and second level branches are mainly pruned (pulled), supplemented by pruning. In the later stage, after the branches are basically formed, pruning is mainly done, supplemented by pulling. Generally, the pruning technique is adopted from top to bottom, suppressing the strong and supporting the weak. First top and then bottom: that is, cut the upper branches of the tree first, then cut the middle branches after a period of time, and then cut the lower branches after a few days. For the same branch, cut the upward branches first, and then cut the parallel branches when they grow thicker than the upper branches. Suppress the strong and support the weak: The strong branches on the upper part should be pruned first for several days, and then the weak branches should be pruned when they grow to a certain thickness. The goal is to make the thickness of the branch match its location. For trees with particularly vigorous growth, in addition to paying attention to daily control, you can also pick leaves and cut branches. After the frost in autumn, the trees wither due to frost, and the branches are exposed. This is very helpful for observing the direction of the branches (leaves), their interlacing, their heights, and their position and shape. At this time, the branches can be carefully pruned and tied. If the branches can be cut into place, use scissors to complete the process. If they cannot be cut into place, use aluminum wire to wrap, bend and pull them into place. If some branches are too upturned or the direction or position is not good, use aluminum wire or rope to pull them into place. When cutting the fraxinus chinensis, special attention should be paid to its opposite branches and frog-leg branches: the opposite branches on the fixed branches and the first and second level branches should be cut off at an staggered interval; the frog-leg branches can be allowed to grow longer while being cut shorter or changed into turning branches.

5. Fertilizer and water management and disease and pest control for Fraxinus chinensis bonsai The management and maintenance of Fraxinus chinensis bonsai can be summarized as "large water, large fertilizer, and large sun." Heavy water: There must be sufficient water, and it is better to be slightly wet than dry. Heavy fertilizer: Apply thin fertilizer frequently during the growing season. In order to facilitate the tree absorption and avoid waste of fertilizer liquid, it is best to apply it once every 5-7 days. Fertilization is generally done on a sunny afternoon when the soil in the pot is dry, and water the leaves after fertilization. On rainy days, when the soil in the pot is wet, the roots cannot breathe well, and it is difficult for the roots to absorb fertilizer after application; Strong sun: Even in the hottest days of summer, as long as there is enough water, the tree can sprout and grow in the high temperature and strong sunlight of 380c~400c, and there is rarely any self-pruning phenomenon at the branch tips, which shows that it has a particularly strong adaptability. The easiest way to judge whether it lacks water, fertilizer and sunlight is to observe the germination of its new shoots: when there is sufficient fertilizer, water and sunlight, the branches on the treetops are thick, and the tender branches and leaves are purple-red, gradually turning green; when there is insufficient fertilizer, water and sunlight, the branches are thin and weak, and the tender leaves are light green. 5 to 7 days before picking leaves and cutting branches, cake fertilizer and water must be applied. During the peak growing season, new buds will be seen three days after strong pruning. After the new buds sprout, cake fertilizer water should be applied again, with the water-fertilizer ratio of 8:1. The branches will become fuller and the number of pruning times can be appropriately increased. Except for the alkaline soil and long-term irrigation with tap water, which have caused yellowing of the leaves, no other pathogens have invaded and harmed the fraxinus chinensis. For chlorosis, it is advisable to dissolve ferrous sulfate in water at a ratio of 1:400 and then irrigate the roots. Do this once every week for 3 to 5 times in a row and the disease will be cured. Pests that attack the ash tree were not seen in the first few years, but in recent years, two main types have been found: one is the flower thrips, whose larvae are about 1.5 mm long. They often damage the unfolded new leaves in spring, causing the edges of the leaves to curl outwards, the tips of the new buds to shrink into a ball and unable to stretch out, and the heart leaves to gradually wither. After discovery, it should be promptly sprayed with 800-1500 times diluted dichlorvos, 1000-1500 times diluted dichlorvos 80% emulsion, or 1000-2000 times diluted chlorpyrifos to kill; or after the larvae damage period is over, remove the curled diseased leaves and promote the growth of new leaves when the leaves are normal, and the insects will return to normal. The other type is the cottony scale and the red wax scale. For trees with insufficient sunlight and weak growth, the damage is mostly to the branches, sucking the sap. During the peak larval hatching period from May to June and September to November, you can spray 2000 times diluted 20% pyrethroid to kill the pests. It is best to use manual pest control when the pests just appear.

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